Font ResizeThe U.S. Naval Academy's huge shiny gold dome towers over this city of 35,000 (smaller than York). It dwarfs the nearby state capitol's smaller, all-white dome. It almost seems like the capitol, with all its political machines and bureaucracy, takes second place to the town's small-town feel and down-home atmosphere. And history is everywhere.
Best known for the Naval Academy and its 4,300 midshipmen, Annapolis dates back to 1649 and served as the capital of the United States when the Treaty of Paris was signed, ending the Revolutionary War. The town boasts more original 18th-century buildings than any other city in the United States, including homes of all four Maryland signers of the Declaration of Independence: Charles Carroll, William Paca, Thomas Stone and Samuel Chase. St. John's College is the third-oldest college in the country, behind Harvard and William & Mary.
The main characters in Alex Haley's Pulitzer Prize-winning "Roots" arrived here in 1767 and were sold into slavery a week later. A memorial to Haley and
Many of the city's activities start at City Dock and what has become known as Ego Alley. The small inlet is busy during sailing months, when massive yachts and sailboats dock here. Boats of all makes, models and sizes make an unofficial parade here by their proud captains. In October, the world's largest powerboat and sailboat show is held here.
But late winter and early spring might be the best time to enjoy the city and its historical buildings and streets. Tourist season begins when the weather breaks and boats are dunked into the water. What is now a leisurely walk up Main Street with a few others will become an elbow-to-elbow battle with humanity during the summer.
An escorted walking tour - a two-hour 1.5-mile walk - begins at 1:30 p.m. Saturdays at City Dock and winds through the city streets, visiting St. John's College, the Naval Academy, various historic homes, the Thurgood Marshall Memorial, and ending at the surprisingly small and understated state capitol.
Check the visitors center at 26 West St. for other tours, including a ghost walk and an African-American Heritage walk. Beginning April 1, historic district tours will be offered twice daily to handle crowds. In this city that could be called one big museum, official museums abound, including a maritime museum, children's museum and an African-American history museum. In April, an seasonal information booth opens at City Dock.
Because Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. are their designated free time, crowds of sharply dressed midshipmen from the Naval Academy wander through downtown like ordinary tourists. They can't travel more than 22 miles from the academy, thus making Washington, D.C., and Baltimore out of bounds.
Think of Annapolis as Baltimore's Fells Point and its night life without the big-city hassles. And Harper's Ferry and its quaint shops and historical background, but multiplied.
Annapolis boasts an incredible 85 restaurants within walking distance of City Dock, and weekends are loaded with special events throughout the year.
The Tour de Clay exhibition, featuring 160 exhibitors in various Annapolis art shops, runs throughout March. For details, check http://www.tourdeclay.com.
"Black Super Stars of the U.S. Navy" is featured all this month at the Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center. For details, call 410-263-6933.
Visit the historic district March 20 for Maryland Day, when it celebrates the first
settlers' landing here. In April,
Annapolis hosts a wildlife art show and an early-American-music festival.
And to prove that spring has arrived, the annual daffodil show opens April 15. And that might be the unofficial beginning to Annapolis' warm-weather rebirth.
GETTING THERE
To get there - It's about 80 miles to Annapolis. Take Interstate 83 south to Interstate 695 west to Interstate 97 south. Drive 18 miles to U.S. Route 50 east and take Exit 24 (Rowe Boulevard). Follow signs to the visitors center or follow Rowe to Northwest Street, around Church Circle to Duke of Gloucester Street. Follow signs to any of the parking garages.
Or, a free shuttle takes visitors to most of the major points of interest. Watch for signs on the way into town on Rowe Boulevard. Parking here is $4. Parking in the garages is a daily maximum of $8.
Metered street parking is good for only two hours and is enforced 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. seven days a week.
DETAILS
For details about Annapolis, including events and museums, visit http://www.visitannapolis.org.
For details about the Naval Academy, visit http://www.usna.edu.
For details about the state capitol, visit http://www.mdarchives.state.md.us.
